Your Formalwear Questions Answered
Consider this an open forum.
Shot on location in Nolita, New York.
Photography, Simi Vijay
Styling, Igee Okafor & Ben Brewster
The key to making it work is to prioritize the characteristics that make a classic tuxedo moment.
With a lot of the world missing the art of getting dressed up for formal events, my friend and fellow menswear enthusiast, Ben Brewster deemed it a suitable time to discuss formalwear and its dress codes, as we like to embrace it.
A few days ago on Instagram, we both asked members of our respective online communities to submit questions they had about formalwear to put up for discussion.
See below for the full conversation Between Ben & I.
Q: Formalwear is classic, but are there ways that people wear it that should be avoided?
IGEE: Definitely classic. While I am not one to tell people how they should dress or express Themselves, I have to say I have never been one to enjoy the idea of a three piece tuxedo composition in modern day context. The waistcoat in addition to a tuxedo feels a bit contrived and try hard For today’s approach.
In a historic, periodic or thematic context however, sure. I do believe they pair well with long tail tuxedo jackets but being that it’s not a fully conceptual look people are willing to commit to these days, it feels a bit off especially when paired with a standard tuxedo jacket. I’ve never seen it executed well. Perhaps it's because I prefer more contemporary and straightforward styling choices. As a menswear optimist, I am looking forward to someone proving me wrong.
Also, I believe knot ties should only be kept for traditional suiting. Knot ties paired with a tuxedo cheapens the look visually a bit in my opinion. The knot tie is associated with a more corporate or serious attachment. The tuxedo exudes a majestic, relaxed and paramount AURA. The two don’t go together.
Ben: I’ve never quite understood wearing the traditional tuxedo as a statement during a non-black tie occasion. I feel tuxedos should be worn in their proper context, otherwise they come off unsettlingly out of place and tacky.
Q: When should I go for a wingtip collar and when not?
IGEE: As often as you please as long as a full tuxedo look is involved.
Ben: Personally, I would only wear one with white tie, but they certainly work with black tie as well. It’s down to personal preference.
Q: What to wear to a black tie event? What black tie accessories do I need?
IGEE: On the basis of essentials, everything you need to attend the event has been exemplified in the images Ben & I are showcasing.
You should prioritize the following: The tuxedo/dinner jacket, the trousers, the shirt OR KNIT, the bow tie, the shoes and cufflinks.
From time to time, I like to accessorize with a wrist watch and a signet ring to individualize my look especially when going for a simplistic ensemble.
Legend has it wrist watches shouldn’t be worn with tuxedos because Of the idea you should be having so much fun at said event, you shouldn’t want to look at the time. While I agree, these days it’s more than acceptable to style as you please.
Ben: First things first: a tuxedo and a bow tie. Secondly a shirt and studs (if necessary) along with cufflinks. Third is a cummerbund, if you like. And finally the shoes, preferably a patent or velvet loafer. There’s nothing else you “need” per say, but I like to spruce things up with a watch and a ring or bracelet, never both.
Q: Are pre-tied bow ties still considered taboo?
IGEE: Not in my opinion, no. We live in a more progressive world with so much access. We are paying less attention to conformities as it pertains to ancient gender and societal norms. The idea is that we are learning from the past and using the knowledge to diversity and represent different needs and wants in the communitIES we exist in. Some people enjoy tying their own bow ties and that’s fabulous. It’s a skill in itself. however, there are others like myself who don’t. Those people should not be inconvenienced or burdened because at the end of the day, personal style is all about comfort and ease. The silk bow tie I am wearing in the images are pre-tied.
Ben: Personally I prefer tying my own. It’s certainly not easy and can be downright frustrating at times but I like the personality and character that each knot ends up with. I see it as a subtle reminder that each black tie occasion is unique in its own way, and to make the most of it. I suppose there is still a bit of a stigma around the pre-tied bow tie, but that’s not to say they’re all bad—only the ones that are obviously a pre-tied bow tie. Igee sports a great example of an acceptable pre-tied option in the accompanying images.
Q: Is there any basic style formula to nailing an effortless formalwear look?
IGEE: Keep each item black except your shirt. There’s more free range for a pop of color with the jacket since almost everything pairs well with black. Ben has exemplified that here with his white tuxedo jacket.
Feel free to accessorize with subtle timepieces, rings or eyewear. These are your essentials: The tuxedo jacket, the trousers, the shirt, the bow tie, the shoes and cufflinks.
Ben: Besides incorporating all the correct clothing elements of black tie, the most important part of the look is how it fits. Regardless of price, if the tux isn’t tailored well then it won’t look good.
Q: The perfect watch to wear with a tuxedo look?
IGEE: I believe the best thing to do is to keep accessories well blended and as subtle as you can. I love and wear Carl F. Bucherer’s Manero Autodate.
Ben: First, look at your cufflinks. Are they silver or gold? Keep your metals consistent. You’ll want to choose a watch with a low profile that won’t catch your shirt sleeve. I love the 34mm Timex Marlin re-release.
Q: What are three things every first timer needs to know to purchase the right formalwear
IGEE: The art of suiting and formalwear is a multifaceted process. On one hand, you can go one route by walking into a store, picking something out and calling it a day. The other option showcases a more holistic process on creating a piece from scratch that is unique to you.
I prefer the more holistic process for my own knowledge, sustainability and enjoyable relationships. On what I believe every first timer needs to know, I say:
Step I: Take note of all of the essentials that make up the formalwear look you’re going after and do some research on the best brands that carry each item. You’re more than likely going to need all of these items again so you want to make sure they last as long as possible especially for the amount of money you’ll be paying for them.
Step II: Ask yourself where you’re going and what your goal is with how you’d like to look. Do you want to make a statement, do you want to blend in, do you want something you can wear all the time? Before you actually start shopping, you want to make sure you have a foundation to help guide your shopping process.
Step III: Find an expert with stylistic knowledge and explore options. Usually, you can find one at a trusted Bespoke or Made To Measure brand that will work with you to create your tuxedo from scratch. You’ll have to have enough patience and focus to go through fabrics, measurements and multiple rounds of tailoring. Try on as many tuxedo options as you can until you feel confident in one. Is it a peak lapel, is it a shawl collar, do you prefer a wingtip? Even though this process can take up to four or more to complete, its quality is worth the spend.
Formalwear occasions should feel special, and majestic. Simply put, if you don’t feel that when you put on a tuxedo, do not get it.
Ben: For me they’re simple:
1) Start with the basics. That means a black tuxedo, black bow tie, white tuxedo shirt, cufflinks and a pair of patent leather or velvet loafers. From here you can always add and evolve, but these are the foundational elements of black tie.
2) Choose timelessness over trend. Black tie attire is an investment, so stay true to yourself and your own personal style. You’ll be reaching for this tuxedo again and again so make sure it’s something you’ll love wearing and feel great in for years to come. Your first tuxedo shouldn’t be an impulse buy.
3) Fit is king. Whether your tuxedo is made to measure or off the rack, make sure the fit is impeccable. Don’t be afraid of the tailoring bill—it’s worth it.
Q: Thoughts on dinner jackets in jewel tones? What is a good occasion to wear them?
IGEE: I am a huge fan of respectfully pushing past the standard in formalwear. Exploring a variety of color tones is one way to do that and generally, it is embraced when sensibly styled. One tactic sees making the jewel toned jacket the only statement piece in the look and making sure everything else is subdued. Another tactic sees a matching dinner jacket and trouser, making sure everything else is subdued. It has to feel individual to you and your personal style. As for appropriate occasions to wear them to, I say any formal black tie events as long as there are not strict color dress codes.
Ben: I love them. If you have the confidence and sartorial wherewithal to pull them off, please do. They work perfectly well for most black tie gatherings, especially in the spring and summer. Keep in mind you’ll likely be one of the few guests wearing color, meaning the spotlight will be on you, so be mindful of the setting. A very formal wedding, for instance, might not be the best time to pull out your statement jacket.
Q: Is there an appropriate alternative to an optic white shirt with an ivory or ecru dinner jacket?
IGEE: Yes! Depending on the season, an ivory turtleneck or an ivory silk shirt.
Ben: Depending on the formality of the event, an off-white turtleneck is a good option. I’ve seen a black shirt paired with a black bow tie and trousers under a white jacket worn quite dapperly. The black turtleneck is potentially an option as well.
Q: Which brands of formal patent leather loafers do you recommend? Do you recommend wearing silk socks with a tuxedo?
IGEE: Silk socks feel really soft and comfortable. I absolutely do recommend, especially if you’re going to pair it with a leather shoe. Tom Ford for a formal patent leather loafer. He does a really modern almond toe and the polish finishes are exquisite.
Ben: If I’m wearing a patent shoe it’s the Carmina Opera Pump, which combines the modern silhouette of a patent loafer with a traditional opera pump grosgrain bow. A silk sock can be great, as long as it isn’t too sheer.
Q: Do you wear a white tuxedo only in the summertime or year round?
IGEE: All year round. In formalwear, I highly doubt color palettes are strictly associated with season.
Ben: While white and cream jackets have traditionally been worn in warm weather or climates, we’re in a new age of formalwear that thankfully abides by few hard and fast rules. Feel free to wear the white tuxedo year-round.
Q: Where is the best place to buy a tuxedo?
IGEE: It really depends on what you’re looking for. I am a firm believer that we should always do our best to support local businesses so my first advice to be to research where you live and see how best you can collaborate with the tailors and craftsmen around you to produce what you want as sustainably as possible. HERE In New York, I absolutely adore the work J. Mueser does.
Generally, I have a lot of friends who are very happy with Suit Supply’s offerings. For more statement options from mainstream brands, Tom Ford is to be HIGHLY considered. Gucci and Etro are very impressive.
Ben: The options vary by price point so here are a few tiers to consider:
$: Indochino, Spier & Mackay
$$: Proper Cloth, Suitsupply, InStitchu
$$$: Zegna, Brioni, Tom Ford
Q: Do you recommend opera pumps?
IGEE: I’ve personally never worn them. Not because I don’t like them, I have just never really thought of it since they’re so similar to the patent leather loafer. I do like the relaxed and delicate look of the shoe’s silhouette and feel the full tuxedo look associated should represent accordingly.
Ben: If you’re dressing for white tie then absolutely. For black tie there are so many styles to choose from I wouldn’t limit yourself solely to opera pumps, although a modern rendition like the ones I’m wearing here from Carmina, that cover more of the instep than a traditional opera pump, are quite sharp.
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